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Helpful Tools:
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X-ACTO knives with a variety of different blades
Variable speed motor tool such as a Dremel with an assortment of grinding
and cutting bits
Sand paper or sanding films of different grits, coarse to fine.
Foam backed sanding sticks (I love these things). A great place to find these
are in the nail care section in the beauty supply area at the local discount
drug store. I like the ones that are about 3/4" x 7" with four different
grits on them. They are cheap and indispensible!
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Glues
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Regular plastic model glue will not work on resin kits. They work by acting
as a solvent that melts the plastic together. Resin doesn't melt. You must
use a cyanoacrylate adhesive (super-glue). The thick types such as Zap-A-Gap
work well. It also helps to use a kicker to speed the curing of the glue.
I usually apply the kicker with a toothpick or bamboo skewer rather than
spraying. Five-minute epoxy also works when you need added strength or a
longer work time.
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Puttys and seam filling
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Almost any putty that you normally use on plastic kits will work on resin.
Automotive Glazing and Spotting Putty is good for minor imperfections such
as pinholes. This putty drys quickly, is very easy to sand and a tube will
last forever. Epoxy putty is great for larger gaps. It is a two part system
that, when kneeded together, can be worked like clay. You generally have
a couple of hours to work it before it sets up. The biggest advantage this
has over other fillers is that it can be worked and smoothed with tools and
brushes dipped in water to produce a finish that will require very little
sanding. An excellent one is made by
MagicSculp.
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